Originally: July 18, 2007
Sub-title: There are a lot of man bags in
SpainIt was difficult to come up with a title for this last one, also strong contenders:
1) Drinking in the streets
2) How I reached my goal weight (and then drank & ate it all back with Sangria and tapas)
3) Do you want to make party with us? (that one is for you, Kate)
Anyway, wrote this on the way back home....
Apparently, it is very common to get food poisoning in
Madrid/Spain in the summer. Ugh. Of course, I became sick on Monday, the day before my hectic work meetings began, and was sick through the whole week. I’m not sure if it is food poisoning, or an allergic reaction to EUSA. Either way, my second week in
Madrid is a blur of fever, chills and trust falls (he he, just kidding).
Out and about in
Madrid, some of my colleagues commented on the wonderful oddities of
Madrid. Since you can go out all night in
Madrid, there are some popular after-hours food choices. There are, of course, the ubiquitous Donner Kebabs of
Europe, but even after those have closed, you have, what I call, the Chinese cardboard boxes. People sitting on cardboard boxes that have everything on offer: chicken fried rice in bags, beer, water, etc. Need a sandwich? No problem, your new friend will just climb up a nearby tree and you can have any bocadillo you desire (jamon, tuna, chicken, etc). In case you were wondering, NO I never did eat any of these bocadillos that grow from trees, or fried rice from a cardboard box, and that is NOT how I got food poisoning.
After my meetings ended on Friday, and a perfectly indulgent evening in my hotel with Kate and Catherine (and our friend, Rioja), Kate and I headed to Cordoba on Saturday. The best decision we ever made…our work meetings are very far behind us!
Mere hours after arriving, Kate and I discovered the Toad equivalent in Cordoba. For those of you that are not familiar with Toad, it is a bar in Cambridge that has live music every night of the week, never has a cover and Kate and I are completely obsessed with it. The sister bar in Cordoba, called Freaktown, is the exact same size, with the same crazy mix of characters; even Greg the bartender (Gregorita, we’ve now named him, a diminutive version of our favorite surly beer slinger). David Bea was playing and did a very nice version of a
Ryan Adams song. As with any night at Toad, hilarity ensued as it slowly dawned on us that 1) apparently there are a lot of man bags in
Spain (in fact, every boy in the bar had one), and 2) oh, yup – this bar is, while not a gay bar, full of gay men. We bonded with the DJ, who played a crazy folk/bluegrass/country version of
Britney Spears ‘Toxic,’ and ‘Staying Alive.’ On our way out, we made friends with a bunch of David Bea fans, and found ourselves the only foreigners in a huge club, Gongorra, that was packed with people, blaring dance music…and yet, no one was dancing. No one. Oh we danced, of course. Those Spaniards poor a stiff drink, god bless ‘em, and since we don’t understand why you go to a dance club and don’t dance, we danced. In fact, we bumped into our waiters from our tapas dinner earlier that evening. They still had their restaurant shirts on.
Spain: hilarious and random.
Kate and I woke up the next day at the early hour of 1pm and headed out to our stressful day of discovering Cordoba. We booked a bath, massage and tea at the Hammam Arab baths. Cordoba is a beautiful small town, with twisting streets and a history of Christian, Jewish and Muslim culture. We became happily lost navigating the streets to find the Arab baths (calle de putas, check) and were relieved to escape the heat and spend 2 hours relaxing. Our relaxing time got off to a bumpy start, when we entered the women’s changing area and were instantly surrounded by a large pack of gaggling Spanish women, about 10 of them. Large. Loud. Thankfully, the baths themselves were silent, even though these women just couldn’t help themselves. We spent 2 hours going between warm, hot and cold baths…a surprisingly exhausting and cleansing experience. We finished up with a 15 minute massage and then shuffled sleepily to have mint tea and relax in a beautiful room of hookahs, pillows and chairs. Aaaaah, Cordoba.
I’ve learned in the past, the best way to discover any new place is to just go with the flow, get lost and talk to people. We wandered in our haze of post-bath bliss through the very empty streets of Cordoba. Not only was it Sunday, but it was between the hours of 3pm and 7pm, when most of the world is eating and sleeping during the extreme heat of the day. Some of our best moments were just taking advantage of the crazy things we came across: like drinking 1 euro canas in the street with a bunch of Cordobians, as it was 2pm on Monday and time for eating, drinking and (soon after) a siesta; discovering the bar with no name that our friend from Casa Pepe directed us to when Casa Pepe was closing; we always seemed to land on our feet in Cordoba.
Cordoba is where we really discovered Tapas, and we often found the best places for Sangria, Salmorejo (cold “dip,” almost like gezpacho) or Tortilla. And yes, we drank Sangria!! Thank goodness they drink it somewhere in Spain! Bar Santos was written up in our guidebook, and it was there we met Raphael and Francisco. Francisco is likely in his late 70s and is known for his famous tortilla. On Sunday, the bar was empty and Kate and I made two stops at Bar Santos in our tapas rotation…proving that being a “local” (even if that means just returning to one place until they know you) is how to get to know a place. We returned there again last night, our final night, and had sangria and tortilla sitting outside on the walls of the Mezquita. The Mezquita of Cordoba is a HUGE cathedral that sits in the center of what was once the largest Muslim temple in the world. It is stunning and unbelievable in its size, and even more amazing since when the Christians took control, they built a church right in the middle of the existing mosque, building around the existing columns. It is a mix of Arab and Christian architecture; side-by-side, it is a jarring combination.
So, we said goodbye to Francisco and Raphael, and had our last Sangria in a local bar, hidden away in the streets of Cordoba, and then walked home at the embarrassingly early hour of 1am. It is hard to say goodbye to
Spain, but it is a place that I know I will return to. I miss it, I miss it, I miss it already… some places just feel like home, and
Spain feels that way to me.
I will be back.